I've been having a bit of a rough time lately with concealer. It's a step that came relatively late to my make-up routine and, as a result I never really knew what to use or how best to use it.
However, my particular problem was more along the lines of how the concealer sat on my skin. No matter which concealer I tried, from the most expensive to the very bottom of the barrel, it would appear to separate on my skin and look like "scales" after a few hours of wear, exposing whatever horrors that lay beneath.
I tried everything I could think of; primer, no primer, powder, no powder. The result was always the same. However, a recent video by MUA extraordinaire Wayne Goss on the different methods of concealing sparked an idea with me and, after much trial and error, I think I've found my ultimate concealer and the best way to apply it!
First up, the concealer of choice. Bourjois Healthy Mix concealer (and the accompanying foundations) have been getting a lot of love in the blogosphere as of late and, to be honest, it's easy to see why. Priced at the higher end of the drugstore cosmetics spectrum, Healthy Mix Concealer (€10.00) touts itself as a "fruit-therapy" corrector that gives a visibly rested and radiant look. The fruit-therapy aspect basically refers to the inclusion of apricot for radiance, raspberry for micro-circulation activator and melon for hydration. Sounds delicious, no?!
Minus one point for Healthy Mix, however, is the squeezy-tube packaging. The, ahem, orifice at the helm of the tube is way too big and, no matter how lightly I put pressure on the tube, too much product comes out. This is a pain because it means I am going through the concealer faster than I ought to be and I'm running the risk of applying too much to my face, not wanting to waste it on the back on my hand.
The concealer is available in three shades; Éclat Clair (Light), Éclat Medium (Medium) and Éclat Fonce (Dark). It's the ultimate bugbear of drugstore products; the price is right, the product is great but, due to the confines of the displays, there isn't the physical space to have more than a few shades to choose from, even when most of us fall between two or three. Being as ghostly as I am, I opted for Éclat Clair and, while it looks a bit dark and a bit yellow-based on the swatch above, it actually blends into my skin really nicely, neutralising redness and brightening the undereye area.
So, how do I apply this wonder product? Well, in Goss' video, which I will embed below, he recommended putting concealer under the eyes, spritzing a duo fibre brush with water and and blending it all in with circular motions. However, this technique resulted in an effect that was a bit too stark for everyday wear so, I adapted it to suit me and my needs.
First I prep the area with a little of my face primer (currently Benefit's The Porefessional). Then, I pop some concealer on the back of my hand and, using my ring finger, I pat and press it under the eyes on top of any darkness. I follow-up by spritzing my Sigma P80 brush with some MAC Fix + or La Roche-Posay Eau Thermale and blending the concealer into oblivion as Goss demonstrates. I repeat this procedure around my nose and on any blemishes and, after a quick dusting of MAC MSFN powder, the concealer is set and doesn't seem to budge, separate or look scaley for the rest of the day!